Here are some highlights from the Spring/Summer 2023 shows.
For Courrèges, a circular sandy track featured a falling column of sand down its center evoking the sands of time – or the movie “Dune”. Quirky and slightly unnerving musical cadences in the soundtrack gave the show a sanitized and uncluttered spirit.
Courrèges has become a brand that touts a signature mood rather than a signature style, and designer Nicolas Di Felice likes to inject atmosphere into his fashion.
Spring-summer fashion began with a crisp white shirt game, with a voluminous shirt dress carrying the simple, sporty vibe well. The models sometimes had bare feet or bare shoes. Di Felice used the runway to bring fashionable twists – snipaways, flip-flops, shiny space materials and deconstruction – on everyday items such as a denim jacket, denim skirt or flared pants. A sporty vest, for example, was given a perverse twist with its transparent materials.
It’s an approach that works well with this generational brand founded in 1961 by André Courrèges and his wife Coqueline, which has become synonymous with space-age aesthetics.
THE ART OF INVITATION
The age of email and growing environmental awareness doesn’t seem to have left much of a mark on the fashion industry’s antiquated invitation system.
Season after season, energy-hungry couriers criss-cross Paris to personally deliver ever more elaborate, often handmade, invitations.
The big houses compete for the wackiest or most imaginative idea which often bears a clue to the theme of the show’s collection.
For Loewe’s invitation, a bright red tropical flower came through the pole that the floral dictionary identified as an anthurium. To keep the flower alive for the duration of Fashion Week, the bottom of the flower’s stem was attached to a state-of-the-art humidity capsule.
Saint Laurent’s invite, meanwhile, was a chic black patent leather wallet with a metallic “YSL” on top, with the presentation card hidden inside.