Everything you wanted to know about MFW but were too afraid to ask

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The men’s fashion shows are back! This is what happens in Milan at present

When Benjamin Franklin said there were only two certainties in life back then, he was lying. There are three: death, taxes, and the fact that fashion week will go by faster than you can utter the words “How come I’m not on the list?” In case you missed it — and you probably did, since COVID has thrown a comedy-sized wrench in the works for another season — menswear kicked off in Milan this week. And although the calendar has been reduced and many brands continue to suspend their shows until June, there are still plenty of fashions to see. From London label JordanLuca making their Italian debut, Alyx staging their return to Milan after a string of Paris shows, and Prada, Fendi and Dsquared2 all making an appearance, we’ve rounded up everything you need to see. As the Italians say: “Prego!

DSQUARED2

Dsquared2’s AW22 show was the first time fashion favorite twins Dean and Dan Caten had shown menswear IRL since before the pandemic hit, and, perhaps unsurprisingly, they were feeling pretty emotional about it. . As guests settled in for the ride on old-fashioned suitcases, the Catens came out onto the runway to greet them, telling guests “how happy they were” to see so many familiar faces. From the moment the first model stepped onto the stripped-down, elevated catwalk, the inspiration became clear: Dsquared AW22 was as camp as a row of tents – literally. Huge puffer jackets emblazoned with logos were layered over bold Fair Isle knits, utilitarian cargo pants and hard-wearing boots, with looks finished with climbing harnesses, carabiners and giant woolen hats, almost at home. It was big, bolshy and, after the shitshow of the past two years, a breath of fresh air. It’s exactly what the label wants you to take a sip of when you head out into the wild with their kit in the fall of 2022.

1017 ALYX 9SM

After taking a break from Paris and sleeping there for the past few years, Matthew Williams has made his big comeback in Italy for AW22. The designer and principal of Givenchy has taken over the impressively named Church of Saint Victor and the Forty Martyrs, beautifully painted but seen better days to stage his latest show, juxtaposing the former grandeur of the space with a collection sleek and contemporary filled with Alix Signatures. Models wearing slick quilted vinyl pants and boxy coats trimmed with ostrich feathers, puffy puffer jackets and chunky knits walked the catwalk in ergonomic rubber boots that looked like they might have been ripped from an early episode of star trek. It wasn’t just the guys who took a peek, though. As always, Williams also sent womenswear in the form of plunging, backless capes, skin-tight jumpsuits and crystal-embellished briefs, in deep red, dusty lilac and mauve hues.

JORDANLUCA

Landing in Milan for the first time after previously showing at LFW, Jordan Bowen and Luca Marchetto have really stepped up their pussies this season. Drawing on the tenderness and brutality of romance and sexuality, the duo behind JordanLuca released a particularly strong collection that balanced softness and brutality. This manifested in fitted suit jackets with broad square shoulders, towering faux fur coats and a subversive kilt, offset by tactile knits bearing large bouquets of red roses and peekaboo pants with cutouts at the knees (an area less known erogenous, FOR YOUR INFORMATION). The final flourishes came through skimpy scarves strung intermittently with fabric roses and silver spikes looking severe, as well as brilliantly odd. Salad fingers-gloves. A real highlight of MFW so far.

FENDI

If Fendi could be summed up in a single sentence, “Opulence: everything belongs to you!” would it be. Going super luxe for the upcoming season, Silvia Venturini sent a collection of clean-cut car coats, sleek and slim suits and chic knitwear in 50 shades of nude beige down the runway, punctuating the collection with leather luggage. expensive and blingy takes on the now iconic wand everywhere. At the more experimental end of the scale, the legendary designer combined sleazy pants with languorous skirts to create a unique and quirky hybrid for AW22, while a few models stalked their way through space in Chunky knit tunic dresses matched with FF- emblazoned semi-sheer pop socks. Never mind guys: get me a pair of those, stat.

DOLCE & GABBANA

Not one to do things by halves, the Italian label brought in Mr. Weed himself, Machine Gun Kelly, to open their AW22 show. Dripping with glitter, the rapper first leaned over a keyboard à la Ross of Friends to create the loop that punctuated the show, before taking a lap on the catwalk in a glittering Swarovski crystal suit, the jacket of which he ripped off and handed to Megan Fox, who was seated in the front row to support her man. The collection was typical D&G: bold, loud, and logo-adorned, with a hodgepodge of puffy puffer jackets, contemporary tailoring, a collaboration with Rocco Pezzella, and futuristic accessories including goggles and goggles — designed with the metaverse in mind – all key. It was about interpreting what a new generation wants to wear in 2022, according to the designers.

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